Rehoming information Pack

Housetraining

Most of our dogs have come from a foster home and are therefore housetrained, however when they first come into a new home you may find that your dog will pee in the house on arrival, this is either a combination of anxiety or YOU not reading your new dog’s signs well enough and not knowing that the dog needs to toilet. Greyhounds are not great barkers, in fact most do not bark at all; so therefore they struggle to let us know when the need the loo, once you know your dog it will be easier to read.

Remember also that when they arrive, they will not know the rules of the home so to make things clear the first thing you should do is lead the dog through the house and out into the area where you want him/her to regularly do his ‘business’. By keeping the dog on the lead the first few times you do this you can ensure they learn not to use the area immediately outside the door. When they first arrive their anxiety levels are at the max, they may be pacing, panting, whining, acting slightly manically so you can expect at least one accident whilst you both learn to read each others signals. During this time get them out every half hour and wait!! Once they do perform even if just a little the minute they stoop or lift use a command word such as wee/toilet. Then praise them like mad. Start to use this word each and every time you let them in the garden and they will begin to associate this with you wanting them to perform.

For a dog that has come straight from kennels the key to housetraining is prevention, ensure that your greyhound never has the opportunity to use the house as a toilet. As above, as soon as your dog arrives in your home, take it straight out to the area you want it to use to wee or do it’s ‘business’, initially keeping him on a lead while you do this. If you consistently use the same words when taking the dog outside – i.e. ‘do business’ or ‘wee’ etc. then the dog will learn to ‘perform’ to command. Again as your dog is finishing up, give him/her lots of praise. For the next few days you will need to be vigilant, every time your dog stands up and walks around or shows any signs of wanting to ‘go’ take him/her outside to ‘wee’, he/she may not want to go, but they soon understand that this is what is expected of them. Signs include getting up suddenly from a nap, circling, and panting, whining, crying, pacing or just standing staring at you.Be alert, if you catch your dog ‘going’ in the house, distract him with a firm, loud NO, take him lightly by the collar, do not grab or lunge and place him outside immediately, then praise him when he ‘performs’.

Remember your greyhound does not know the rules and it would not be fair to punish him. If there is an accident use a good specialist pet cleaner, a biological washing powder diluted or a 50% white vinegar, water mix as this eliminates the odor and prevents your pet from using the same spot again.

Most greyhounds will not alert you that they need to go outside, they are used to being in a predictable routine in the kennels and we suggest that you set a routine as soon as possible. If your dog has been in a foster home, they should provide you with details of their routine and we suggest that if it does not suit your household routine, you change it slowly to give the dog time to adjust. Understand that your greyhound will need to urinate 30 minutes to an hour after drinking large quantities of water.

If your dog has done his business in the house and you did not catch him/her, ignore it, it is no use taking a dog back to the scene of the crime and expecting it to understand why you are pulling your hair out and ranting and raving like a mad man. They will not understand. Simply take the dog out of the area the soiling occurred in and clean up. Remember you should never hit, yell at or rub your greyhound’s nose in any mess that he makes. You are teaching him how to behave appropriately and housetraining, although generally quite fast for greyhounds because they are usually very clean in their kennels, does take patience, timing, prevention and most of all supervision.

Fears & Anxieties Going to a new home:

When a Greyhound goes to a new home some people are anxious about how they are going to look after their new companion but this concern is two way. Your new Greyhound will be concerned that he is in a new 'pack' in a new environment and he will be anxious as to who will be the one to give him guidance, security and food so he will be relying on you to show him the way.

Chewing:

Dogs chew for comfort as the act of chewing releases endorphins, which reduces stress levels. Some dogs when they go to a new home have a spell of chewing, which usually disappears once the dog feels more settled. Some people find their dogs settle better when they go out if they give them a dried pig's ear or bone to chew.

From a sheltered life into the big wide world - 'Fight, Flight and Confusion'

When people get puppies it is stressed they socialise them as much as possible to help them accept many different things later in life. Many Greyhounds have never been allowed a puppy hood as other dogs have and some live such a sheltered life that they have very little or no experience of things we see every day and take for granted. Items such as household objects including washing machines and hoovers along with other breeds of dogs, animals including sheep, cows etc., traffic, town life and landscapes that are unfamiliar to them such as towns, sea, lakes etc.

Greyhounds are believed to be the only known breed of dog that recognises its own breed. So if they see another Greyhound they often have to go over and say hello. They can often walk up to a strange Greyhound with no fear but they find other dogs 'strange furry things' that could be aliens for all they know. Yes this is very true and for Greyhounds finding themselves in this situation it can be quite a frightening experience and either 'fight or flight' can easily set in or they can become over stimulated and filled with mixed emotions that often gives the impression the dog is aggressive when really it's just very frightened. In these cases it is very important they be socialised with other dogs and life in general.

'Fight' - I don't know what you are so I'm going to get you before you get me.

'Flight' - I don't know what you are so I'm going to run away and hide.

'Over stimulation' - I don't know what you are and I'm confused because I don't know if I should play with you, get you before you get me or run away from you. The most important thing to remember if your dog suffers from any of the above problems is that you as their pack leader must provide security, guidance and act as if what is happening is perfectly normal.

If you reassure your dog please remember there is a very fine line between reassuring him there is nothing to worry about and reassuring him that he does have a need to be worried - this line is so fine that some people find themselves reassuring their dog it has a need to worry instead of the other way round and therefore, making matters worse.

'Fight'

A Greyhound needs to smell the other 'creature' in order to work out its one like him but a different, shape, size and colour. They need to have the confidence to allow the creature inside their own personal space in order to smell them and work it out. However, for Greyhounds that don't have this confidence tend to allow the creature near them then lunge for it - 'I've got to get you before you get me'. This action gives the impression the dog may be aggressive, however, the body language of a frightened dog is different from that of an aggressive dog and it needs to be watched carefully to determine which is the case.

In the case of a frightened unsocialised dog you need other people with dogs to help show yours he has no need to fear them. With your dog wearing a muzzle introduce him to another dog - the muzzle safeguards both dogs and gives the owners confidence to allow them to meet. The muzzle allows the other dog to come inside your dog's personal space so he can be sniffed at without being hurt.

'Flight'

In these cases the dog will often turn and run away from what frightens him or will stand still and tremble all over. These need the reassurance he have nothing to fear so if you act normal and he will look to you thinking 'well if they aren't frightened they why should I be' and, in time he will get used to reacting to new things the same way as you do because after all you are the pack leader and there to protect him.

Start by introducing him to other dogs that you know are friendly so he can sniff them and come to realise they are like him but a different colour and shape. As time goes by introduce him to other dogs as you are out and about and he will come to realise there are many different kinds just like him. When introducing him to strange landscapes and other experiences you must act normal but keep him on a shortish lead to give you more control and keep one eye on him to make sure he doesn't try and twist out of his collar to run. Ignore the fretful behaviour and praise the quiet and calm behaviour.

'Confusion'

A greyhound that has led a very sheltered life may not show definite signs of 'fight or flight' but become very confused at what he is seeing. Visiting a beach or perhaps a lake with all their associated happenings such as boats, canoes, swimmers, birds, swans and even other dogs running off the lead and playing can cause some dogs to become over stimulated and give off all the wrong signals. His confusion over these strange new things means he doesn't know whether he should be frightened of them, attack them or go and play with them.

Your dog's reaction can also give you mixed feelings because sometimes he's okay and others not. Why? His reactions over what is happening can cause you difficulty in deciding if he wants to chase them or play with them. If this happens he needs more socialisation with life in general, which should be done slowly and at his pace because if he is pushed into situations he can't cope with then he has 'gone a step too far' causing his mixed feelings to show through again. If this happens remove him from the situation and take him somewhere where he feels he can cope. For example, if he goes to the beach where there are two dogs on a lead and he's fine then it shows he can cope with it. If there is a dog of the lead running and jumping about playing with a ball and he starts pulling and barking then he has gone 'a step too far' for him to cope and so remove him from the scene and try again another day. If a dog is on the lead and running around but he isn't bothered then he can cope with that. It's a case of introducing him to as many things as possible but doing it a bit at a time, at his pace and removing him from the scene if he becomes over stimulated - this may take a few weeks and generally they will get there in the end as he learns to accept new situations and not to worry about other things happening around him.

Traffic:

If your Greyhound gets 'jumpy' on the lead when traffic approaches from either in front or behind then it may be he's not used to walking close to traffic and needs to be given the time to realise that yes it may be frightening as it approaches but as it passes it won't hurt him when you are around. As the vehicle approaches and your dog becomes 'jumpy' just stand still, say nothing, act as if it's perfectly normal and don't reassure your dog that all is okay. If you do you will be reassuring him that he does have a need to be frightened. Just stand still and allow him time to watch the vehicle approach and pass him. Once it's passed and he's settled again say confidently, 'its okay, his name, come' and continue your walk. If you repeat this each time a vehicle approaches he will soon learn there is nothing to fear. He will probably start ignoring oncoming traffic first because he can see it coming but with time and patience he will learn there is nothing to fear from traffic coming from behind either. The initial jumpiness will change to perhaps a look over his shoulder and a confident 'Its okay, his name, come' from you will be enough to keep him walking.

Separation Anxiety:

Greyhounds are often kept with others whilst in kennels where they are usually surrounded by constant noise, people and other dogs. Whilst many dogs are happy to be left alone in their new home others find it a stressful and frightening experience. Moving from a kennel to a family environment is full of new experiences, which we take for granted but some dogs find frightening to begin with. A dog is a pack animal and slots into the pack under the pack leader. They look to the pack leader for guidance in what to do and how to behave, making them feel secure and providing them with a food supply. In a family environment the person who does the feeding is generally regarded as the pack leader and therefore has the task (in the eyes of the dog) of providing guidance and security also, which is what the dog needs to eliminate separation anxiety.

Symptoms of separation anxiety:

Your dog follows you from room to room, unwilling to let you out of sight even for a moment. Dogs often show this insecurity by mischievousness, barking, howling and chewing when they are left on their own – their pack leader has gone, will he come back? What are they to do? They panic! All the physiological signs of fear may be present - an increase in heart and breathing rate, panting, salivating, increased activity and, sometimes, a need to go to the toilet. The dog may try to follow you, scratching at doors, chewing at doorframes, scratching at carpets or jumping up at windowsills to look for a way out. A dog can't tell the difference between a minute, an hour, a day or never and they become stressed because they think you have gone never to return so you need to show him that even when you are not there you WILL come back.

Which dogs are most likely to develop separation anxieties?

Adopted dogs seem to be especially prone to separation problems, particularly during the first few weeks in their new home or if they are shy, sensitive and submissive. Such dogs are usually described as having a "wonderful temperament" and being "loving and affectionate". They tend to be the ones that bond with a new owner quickly and strongly.

Reducing separation anxiety problems:

Teach your dog or puppy to tolerate short, planned absences. Leave your dog in the room where they will normally be left, close the door and walk away After a short time (less than one minute), go back in without greeting. Do this several times in one session and repeat the sessions throughout the day. Gradually extend the period of time that your dog is isolated. If your pet becomes distressed, begins to bark, scratch at the door, or has chewed anything when you return, leave for a shorter period next time and progress more slowly. Many dogs respond well to being given a cage but care must be taken to introduce the dog to it gradually. Dogs are a denning animal by nature and will see a small comfortable cage as a den making them feel more secure. Many owners fall into the trap of allowing the dog the run of the house as they think it’s better to give him plenty of space. Not only will this increase the dog’s anxiety levels it will also result in more damage being done. Continue until absences of 30 minutes can be tolerated without a problem and then begin to go through the normal leaving preparations, such as putting on your coat and picking up your keys before leaving the dog alone in the room. Exercise your dog, with a walk and by playing games, well in advance of leaving so your dog has time to settle down. When you go out, do not say goodbye - just walk out. The contrast between you being there and not being there is then much reduced.

Provide a small meal a short time before departure so that your dog is more likely to be sleepy Leave your dog somewhere where any damage done will be minimized. This should be well away from electrical wires and valuables, and where any barking is least likely to annoy neighbours. It is important to leave your pet in the house, where they will feel most secure, rather than out in the garden. Leave the animal with something special to chew - a large rawhide chew with small titbits forced between the layers will keep your dog occupied and distracted during the first few minutes of your departure. It is in the first few minutes that your dog feels most distressed so this helps the animal cope and become accustomed to being alone.

Wearing an old sweater or T-shirt before leaving and putting it in your dog's bed will sometimes help. You need to renew your scent on this garment each time you leave the house - leaving it at the bottom of the dirty laundry basket will save you from having to wear it each time. Some dogs are comforted by the familiar sound of a radio playing - or you could record 30 minutes of your family's conversation and play this as you leaveWhen you return, greeting rituals should be kept short and without great excitement. Do not, on any account, punish, scold or be angry with your dog. Consider it your fault if something has gone wrong and seek further help if necessary.

Why punishment makes it worse:

It is natural to be angry if you return to find damage to your home, mess in the house or annoyed neighbours. Sensing this anger, dogs show submission in an attempt to appease the owner and reduce any punishment they might otherwise be subjected to. Unfortunately, a submissive posture (ears flat, head lowered, crouching, tail between legs) is often misinterpreted by owners as guilt. They often say, "See, he knows he has done wrong." Any punishment given on returning home is not only ineffective it may make matters worse or even lead to additional, seemingly unrelated, problems.

Dogs associate punishment with what they are doing at the instant they are punished and so your dog will not associate the telling off with their actions before you came home, even if you take the animal over to the scene of the crime. It is not that your dog cannot remember what happened, just that it is natural to think the punishment is for what is going on at that moment, rather than what your dog did hours earlier. Now, in addition to being anxious about being left, the animal is also worried about the owner returning.

Towards a more lasting cure:

In order to cope when you leave the house, your dog must first be comfortable without constant reassurance from you at home. The following tips will help to set the relationship between you on reassurance from you at home. The following tips will help to set the relationship between you on a more independent footing and prevent some of the overdependence that fuels separation problems.

Ignore any approaches made to you. Do not speak, tell off, touch or look at your dog. When you decide to give attention, call your dog to you and make as much fuss as you like. Do this as often as possible so your dog is learning that quiet, detached behaviour brings lots of attention. Decide on set periods of time during when you either ignore your dog, or you play and give attention. This builds a more independent relationship than if you are constantly touching and talking to your dog as you move around the house. Prevent your dog from following you from room to room.

If you have taken on an adult dog, start this training as soon as you take your dog home. Close the door behind you when you go into another room so the dog is isolated for a few minutes until you return. Coolly acknowledge the pet's presence when you go back in but do not make a big fuss. With a newly acquired dog, arrange for your dog to sleep in the kitchen at night rather than in the bedroom so that the animal is not with you constantly for such a long period.

Some additional information

There are a number of herbal calming products on the market which can help. The most common are based on the herb Valerian which is easily obtainable in chemists, vets and herbal shops. Some dogs respond well to these and in most cases they are worth a try. There are a number of corrective collars on the market. There are basically two types, those which give off a sound and those which give a spray. Sound collars are cheap and work on the principle of emitting a sound each time the dog barks. The flaw, of course, is that the dog doesn’t hear the sound because of its own barking. Spray collars are much more effective but are very corrective and can increase stress levels. A spray collar should only be used under the supervision of a properly qualified trainer. Electric shock collars have become easily available on the internet. They are totally unsuitable for this type of problem and should not be used. Remember, if you greet the dog on return it is not hearing “see I told you it’s all right” it is hearing “I am so so sorry you got stressed out when I left you and I won’t do it again”. This is something the whole family needs to keep up, children, in-laws, dog walkers, whoever.

Stealing food – or counter surfing!

The easiest way to solve counter surfing is to prevent it. It is a good idea to set up new greyhounds, so that their first experience is unpleasant. We all know that they will try it, so we might as well control the situation. You can set your greyhound up by taking several empty pop cans and placing several rocks or coins in the cans. Place some tape over the opening in the top of the cans and attach string to each can either by tying it to the tab or by taping it. At the other end of the strings, bring them all together and attach them to a tasty treat that cannot be eaten quickly. The treat should be something the dog would struggle with such as string cheese still in the wrapper. The strings should be long enough for the cans to be as far back as possible and for the dog to be on the way down from the counter before the cans begin moving. The beauty of this is that you do not have to be in the room. Your greyhound learns that counter surfing is always bad regardless of where the humans are. Most dogs find the noisy fall of the cans frightening and decide it is not worth pulling items off the counter.Be sure to set up the kitchen table and different sections of the counters.

Dogs are not good at generalizing. They may have to do it 2 or 3 times. While the trap is set make sure all other counters and tables are clear. Feel free to place the food right on the edge of the counter. Make it very easy and hard for a passing canine nose to resist. For a veteran counter surfer, a set up may not work. They already have been rewarded a number of times and therefore will be more difficult to discourage. You may have to set the trap a number of times before they decide it is not worth it. You may also need to use the cans as an alarm system if your veteran counter surfer is not frightened by the ruckus. When you hear the cans falling, you can fly into the kitchen for a good scolding.

The most effective way to prevent counter surfing is to make sure nothing is ever available. Use your cabinets, dog proof containers, and the top of the refrigerator to store food.

Feeding:

Cod liver oil is a beneficial supplement that will help to improve joint mobility, skin and coat condition.

Evening Primrose Oil is very useful at curing the problem of dandruff. You can usually find a liquid form of it at farm shops/equine suppliers which is combined with cod liver oil. This product should be free of detrimental additives and is worth seeking out as the capsules of evening primrose oil designed for people often contain added vitamins. Over time these vitamins can be detrimental to the dog's wellbeing. Evening Primrose Oil should not be given to dogs suffering from any form of epilepsy as it may make the dog more likely to suffer from a seizure.

Garlic can be added to your dog's food as this is a natural form of flea repellent.Tinned tomatoes and banana in moderation are a good aid to alleviating cramp. Both products contain potassium which can reduce or eliminate the cramp attacks.

Canned sardines, mackerel or pilchards in oil or tomato sauce are suitable once a week for dogs and these help maintain joint mobility, skin and coat condition. They are also a useful appetite stimulant for dog's who appear "off" their food. Do not feed canned fish in brine, even drained the salt content is harmful.

When and how to feed:

The time that you feed your dog(s) is entirely your choice, feed to suit your routine. However, please bear in mind the following recommendations to help you decide the right time and manner for you and your dog.Feed twice daily.

Do not exercise your dog or allow your dog to run around for at least 1 hour after feeding, ideally 2 hours if vigorous exercise is planned. This is not to be awkward, but to save you and your dog the emotional and physical trauma of a potentially fatal digestive complaint known as stomach torsion. (Stomach torsion or Bloat is explained more fully below).

Do not feed your dog immediately after vigorous exercise for the same reason as above but also because your dog may be too tired/hot to eat and will likely waste food.Always ensure that your dog has access to fresh water. Check bowl levels regularly, particularly in hot weather. However, a dog should not be allowed to drink excessively for 1 hour before or after meals.

Try to allow at least 5 hours to elapse between the dog's last meal and his/her last toilet trip. In this time food should have passed through the system sufficiently to save you an early hours "alarm call" for toilet purposes.

You should certainly consider using a feeding stand to raise your dog's bowl height. Again, this helps prevent incidence of stomach torsion. A raised bowl is very beneficial to a particularly tall or elderly dog or one who suffers from any joint stiffness. The need to drop their neck and shoulders to eat is eliminated and so too is the difficulty of eating with, in effect, their head below their body. Try it yourself and you will find that it is not easy or comfortable. You can purchase feeding stands from most good pet stores or direct from DCGR (they cost between £28 to £30 for one that holds a water bowl too) or you could easily make one yourself from an old coffee table or upturned bucket etc. All that needs to be done is to cut a bowl sized hole into the table/bucket. If you feed your dog indoors a feeding stand is probably preferable as the other alternatives can look rather unsightly.

After eating give your dog a chance to toilet. Most dogs will at least urinate straight after feeding and they will appreciate the opportunity. Ideally your dog should see you (and your family) eat something before you feed the dog. This re-enforces the fact that the humans are the pack leaders rather than the dog. In a wild dog pack, it is the pack leader who eats first. This is particularly useful advice if your dog is one who has a dominant character, and takes every opportunity offered to become "boss".

If you want a polite, well mannered animal around food, never let your dog beg food and never respond to those begging eyes. Your dog will wait happily for you to finish your meal if you are consistent in this (a newly homed dog could take some time before this stage is reached). You can of course give your dog the left overs once you have all finished eating, but not if you are a salt fan and have added copious amounts to your chips!

Stomach Torsion/Bloat (Gastric Dilation Volvulus):

Bloat is life-threatening. Spotting it early and getting immediate veterinary treatment are the key to your dog surviving. We believe the mortality rate for bloat is almost 50%.Large breed dogs with deep chests are the most commonly affected by this condition.Acting early is crucial to the survival of your pet. If you see the following signs in your dog, we recommend you get your dog to a vet immediately. If you are at all unsure about your pet's behavior after eating, we recommend you contact a vet straight away for their advice.

Early Symptoms: Restlessness with pacing, Salivation, Retching/attempted vomiting with nothing being brought up, Swollen abdomen. The dog whines or groans when you press his/her tummy.

Later Symptoms: Pale gums and tongue, Rapid heart beat weak pulse.
Difficulty breathing, general weakness, Collapse.

Are You the Leader of Your Pack?

Dogs NEED leaders. They operate on a "pack" system: there are leaders and there are followers. If this system does not exist in a household, often the dog will slip into the leader spot. In their mind, SOMEBODY needs to be the leader.

Most of you have probably seen or heard about National Geographic Channel's The Dog Whisperer with Cesar Millan. Briefly, Cesar rehabilitates dogs with behavior problems and believes that most dog problems are caused by humans not providing their dogs with leadership. In most cases, Cesar solves the dog's problem by teaching the human family members how to be good leaders. Some of you might be asking yourself how this might apply to greyhounds. Well, greyhounds can have problems too. Plenty of greyhounds suffer from separation anxiety. Some may growl or snap if a human attempts to join the greyhound on the couch. Others live with shyness or fear. I believe many of these problems can be prevented or improved if the humans demonstrate leadership.

I want to encourage you to become a better leader for your current dogs and for future dogs. Even if you adopted years ago, you can step up to the plate at anytime and improve the lives of all of your dogs. Even if you consider your dogs to be perfect now, there may be a situation in the future (move to new house, new baby, new dog, travel, bad storm, death of a family member, etc.) that may lead to problems you have never experienced before. If you are always a strong leader, your dog should have nothing to fear and should take it all in it’s stride.

In the beginning, it can be overwhelming for a greyhound to be suddenly removed from a greyhound pack and placed into a pack of humans. When the humans allow the greyhound free access to the entire house and onto furniture, allow the greyhound to dictate schedules and to determine when the household should wake up in the mornings, and shower the greyhound with affection around every turn, a greyhound can suddenly become very concerned that there is not any clear leadership in this new pack. With no rules to follow and free flowing attention and affection, a greyhound may find the need to step into the leadership role.

Most adopters simply want to love their pet, but without structure, this can create a lot of stress. The greyhound may not be able to understand or trust that you know best when you put the greyhound in a crate and leave for work. To make matters worse, some people feel guilty and struggle with leaving their greyhound behind. To the dog, the person looks incompetent and suddenly this incompetent person is confining you and the person leaves the house to take on the world. To the dog that has been given the leadership position, this is an extremely stressful and anxious situation to be in.

If you are dealing with a more confident dog, you may not see signs of separation anxiety, but the greyhound may quickly lay claim to the furniture and then begin telling the humans to keep their distance when he or she is snoozing on the couch. Others may claim the space around their beds on the floor. This is not good either. The humans should own all of the space and if the dog is annoyed, he or she should yield to the human and leave the area. Snapping should never be considered acceptable.

Maybe your greyhound is at the opposite extreme and is very shy and timid. These fearful canines crave to be told where to go and what to do. They want to be able to trust that their humans will confidently lead them through danger and keep them safe. If the humans do not demonstrate leadership qualities, but instead try to comfort the shy dog during fearful situations, then the shy dog may never improve.

So how does one become a good leader? If our family (new adopter looking to prevent problems or an adopter looking to improve current problems) withholds affection initially and focuses their energy on exercising, implementing rules, and adhering to the family schedule, then the canine family member can relax, adjust, and take it all in. Here are a few examples of rules you can implement:

1.        Keep your greyhound off the furniture. This is especially important if you have kids or might have kids in the future. If in the future (one that does not include children), you decide to allow your greyhound on the couch, it should be because you invited he or she. Not because the dog discovered it and you never blocked it. It is best if it is your idea and not the dog's. If you cannot easily remove your greyhound from the couch, then he or she should not be up there.

2.        Make your greyhound wait to eat. Do not prepare food until he or she is calm and quiet. Stop preparing the food, if your dog begins to get excited anytime during the process. Once he or she calms down, you can continue. When you finally do put the food on the ground, make the greyhound stand back and wait until you tell he or she that it is ok. Using your foot to block your greyhound from getting to the food too soon works well. You must follow through. It might take an hour to feed your dog the first time you try this, but each day will become faster and faster. If you give up, you lose the battle and become a follower.

3.        Do not allow your greyhound to walk you. I see lots of adopters follow behind as their greyhounds drag them along. You should make those decisions. Too many people simply do not walk their dogs because they find that all the pulling, stopping, and sniffing to be too much of a hassle. Simply, insist that the greyhound keep moving with you until you reach an area suitable for stopping and sniffing. Then you can let the slack out in the lead and let him have some free time to do what he wants. When you decide the time is up, move along.

4.        Do not allow your greyhound to sniff food on counters or tables or to approach you while you are eating. If you are sitting at your table eating dinner, your dog should mind his or her manners and give you space to eat.

Families should make up their own rules. If a particular room contains a prized teddy bear collection, you do not have to allow your dog into that room. If the humans want to cuddle with their dog on a particular sofa while watching TV, but do not want to sleep all night in a bed together, that is a good rule to implement. If there is something you do not want your greyhound to do, do not allow it.

Once your greyhound understands how the household flows and how things work, then you can start giving affection at times when your greyhound is doing what you have asked. By then your greyhound should be well on his or her way to becoming a great pet.

HELP – if you need help or advice on any problems or worries you may have about your greyhound, telephone Viv on 01899 880269.